Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Black #10: The Girls & The Jewelry

The rest of Black's tenth issue is equally fab. 

The Waiting Comes In Waves
I so love the editorial of Kim Noorda. The colours are simply gorgeous and the juxtaposition of fabrics is great (tule, cashmere, silk, either). And those shoes are to die for - the brown leather stops them being too bondage.
Im 99.9% sure the jacket on the left is a Rick Owens - I would give my first born for one of his leather jackets. Its also nice to see those embellished Gucci pants from their now iconic (and much referenced/copied) Fall 08 collection.
Ps: Does Noorda make anyone else seriously want to get a messy bob? Or is it just me?

Karen Walker Jewelry
Love these ads, so stunning and quirky. The nostalgia of the ornament makes the jewelry even more special - gives it a sense of tradition and an heirloom quality.

Deadly Ponies Precious
Love that the amazingly talented Deadly Ponies do jewelry now. I've been semi-obsessed with their creamy flower pieces ever since I saw one at Superette when they first came out. There is something stunningly aged and primal about them (very different to typical flower based jewelry). Also, as I have also been obsessed with the solid fragility of bell jars my whole life, I love this shot; so evocative and shrine-like.

Monday, May 11, 2009

Black #10: The Boys

The menswear editorials in the latest Black magazine blew my mind. Completely and totally loved them (way more than the womens' for once). Incredibly  grungy, sexy and semi androgynous. I would so wear what they are. Stunning models - different to the usual models you see around (ripped all american beefcakes or skinny little slips of boys with better pouts than the girls).

Nineteen93
This is undoubtably one of the best eds I have seen anywhere in a long time. Everything is just insanely stunning; rich contrast of the lighting, amazing grungy clothes - paired with nailpolish. All the looks have a sexy, worn in and rumpled quality (morning after much?). And there's a shit load of my favorites like Stolen Girlfriends Club, Friedrich Gray, Ksubi and Chronicles of Never - most of it supplied by the heavenly store that is Black Box. And I love the long haired guy - I have a total soft spot for guys with long hair.


Stay Away From Being Maybe
Love the roughed up and layered white shirts here (I've got them on the brain, we are studying/designing them at uni at the mo). Super hot waistcoats, and love love a guy in a fur jacket. The v successful Levi Clarke is awesome in this. Such a different (and quite uniquely kiwi look).

Hello Kitty

I fell in love with the cover of the latest Fashion Quarterly the minute I saw it in Paper Plus - and the corresponding editorial was even better. The contrast between the creamy beige knits and the slick black leather is stunning. So delicate and soft yet so sharp. And that kitten is adorable!! I seriously want that jumper in the centre - I've seen it somewhere, just can't remember where. Possibly Black Box?

Fashion Quarterly Winter 09 "Hello Kitty"

Eighties Prom

I went to an "80s Prom" themed 21st on saturday night. Great theme! Everyone went to a tone of efforts (lots of hammer pants, so-bad-they-are-good adidas jackets, skinny ties, puffy dress and scrunchies. I was majorly bummed that between uni and work I hadn't had the time to source a disgustingly awesome vintage dress, so I had to make do and piece together something from my own wardrobe - worrysome somewhat that I had everything I needed? And that I pretty much liked my outfit? It was held in a hall and felt exactly like a bad school dance. Balloons, chairs around the edge, trestle tables with food and drink. The birthday girl is a music fiend and a bass player so the playlist was awesome.
Wearing: DIY studded denim vest, Skylark floral skirt, vintage docs, Supre sequin tube top, scrunchie.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Lula #10

So I finally set aside some time to scan some of the magazines I've read lately (the To Read pile is still massive though...) The latest Lula is stunning, always a delight to read - and something I always do v slowly. Boaters and pastel were a massive feature in the whole issue (lucky Brits with spring upon them).

And We All Shine On
Chanel Iman does pastels and nerdy/ladylike pieces without looking saccharine. The tones look amazing on her skintone. Unfortunately I would look like a total dick in these (blonde hair + head-to-toe pastels = barbie much?).

Lady Bird
This editorial (accompanying a v interesting interview with the crazy-talented Luella Bartley) so makes me think of my little sis - she is a total cupcake fiend. I love this collection from Luella - totally delicious. Cute, ladylike, iron and just a bit messed up.

Hold On To Your Hat
Im still obsessed with boaters (thanks Marc and Lover), unfortunately with our lovely schizophrenic Auckland winters they would be a v silly option. So I shall just admire beautiful shots like these and bide my time for spring.

This Side Of The Blue

Je T'aime
Love these washed out, sun-bleached florals. I adore anything Liberty-esque - I've been thoroughly (and gratefully) overexposed to their beautiful fabrics my whole life. Merci mama.

To Be Your Friend
And this is just too pretty. Every little girls dream. Love how they have paired the usually slick and futuristic Rodarte laser cut leather leggings with sequins and tulle - super fresh take on this fab piece.

Bow Wow Wow and A Dreamy Day Of Dreaming You

I love love love this Isabel Marant ad... Seriously coveting patchwork at the mo. Have a patchwork vest in my sewing pile - will def have to wait until mid semester break unfortunately.

The Daisy Age

This editorial is timeless. We see so much of Kate these days that its easy to forget quite what made her so special in the first place. Her youth, energy and her imperfections; freckles, crooked teeth, bowlegs. Gorgeous.

The Face #22 July 1990 The Third Summer Of Love "The Daisy Age" 

Kate Moss by Corinne Day

Source: The Fashion Spot

Studded

I want these babies so bad. I'm such a wedge fiend - my decrepit midget feet find heels super painful.  Love the contrasting wood tones, the crushed leather and the gold and silver studs. Love!

Sam Endelman Studded Wedge 

Source: Urban Outfitters

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Masha

Its so nice to see a runway regular like Masha Tylena in editorial and doing an awesome job. Too often those quirky girls that do so well on the runway don't get picked as much for magazine work, but her wide eyed, startling beauty works perfectly for this cool, strong yet youthful shoot. Love how it blatantly plays with the act of playing dress up. Referencing knights and superheroes - but never being cliche or OTT.

This last shot is my favorite - I've always been a total sucker for anything referencing flags - especially those of the blue-white-red nature i.e US, UK, France etc (probably from way to much exposure to history as I grew up and to paintings like this).

Masha Tylena in Crash April 2009

Source: Model Couture

9/05/09: Net-A-Porter

Love the Stella McCartney exclusives that Net-A-Porter's been having lately - I think that cloud print shirt is my fave (love the washed out blue/grey and the dirty cream). Would be perfect with those panel leggings and asymmetric shoes. I love paring something soft/pastel/printed with some sharp black pieces.
Clockwise: Stella McCartney Cloud-print silk shirt, Markus Lupfer Lizzy panel leggings, RingsEclectic Turquoise stone-embellished ring, Stella McCartney Embellished silk jacket, Jil Sander Asymmetric leather sandals.   
Source: Net-A-Porter

Friday, May 8, 2009

Indian Summer

This is one of the best Daria editorials I've seen in a while (not that she ever does anything remotely average). Love the fresh, summery feel.  Lots of Chloe and those sumptuously crushed Prada silks. Im still obsessed with those glasses. I'm thinking an intense search for the perfect pair is in order.

Vogue UK June 2009 "Indian Summer" Daria Werbowy by Patrick Demarchelier

Source: Fashion Gone Rogue

Chloe Collared

I've been researching shirts for uni, and have spent ages trawling through all the stunners the Chloe have done over the past few seasons. I don't know if you've ever looked at the collars and button details they do, but they are breathtaking. Delicate lace, subtle yet interesting shapes. Im pretty much living collars at the mo - it was all I did from 9-4 yesterday! Surprised I didn't dream about them, but slept for way to little to even get close to REM last night.

Chloe Spring 09

Chloe Spring 07

Chloe Fall 06
Source: Style.com

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Oceans Blue

This is how swimsuit eds should be done - so far from vulgar or tacky or blatant. Yet they still have a captivatingly dirty/sexy quality (in the best possible way). I'm loving anything in gathered/tied/twisted white tshirting at the moment - top faves of mine done by Alexander Wang and Karla Spetic. I love how the classic swimwear is paired with iconic, tough pieces like the studded leather, denim and leopard. Takes it totally away from the beach.
 
Ps: Anyone else miss summer already? I do.
Vogue UK June 09 "Oceans Blue" Lara Stone

The Met's Costume Institute Gala 09: Neo-Supers

Unsurprisingly, the models kicked ass on the red carpet at The Met Ball. The neo-supers all looked mind blowing - and super fresh. This is why they are payed the big bucks and front pretty much everything. They look to die for on the runway, in editorial, in candids and on the red carpet.

My three all time faves looked stunning. Trust Erin to blow everyone away in some insane zipped leather pants. That girl is an icon. Sasha looks absolutely ethereal and yet somehow earthy at the same time. I LOVE her hair. Best of the night. Daria gives a tiny sparkly dress edge and mystery (total opposite of what we saw on Giselle).
Left to Right: Erin Wasson in Phi, Sasha Pivovarova in Giambattista Valli & Daria Werbowy in Balmain

The other big names looked amazing too. Anja is made for Balmain (her shoulders do worry me somewhat though...). Miranda manages to be super sexy but not vulgar. Caroline looks like a total princess - every girls dream, and I could SO see that dress on an Olsen (probably MK). I can't tell you how much Im dying for that insane chainmail dress by Alexander Wang that Lara is wearing. She's got the figure to wear it instead of it wearing her.
Left to Right: Anja Rubik in Balmain, Miranda Kerr in Jil Sander, Caroline Trentini in John Galliano, Kerr, Alexander Wang & Lara Stone in Alexander Wang.
Source: Fasionologie

6/05/09: Net-A-Porter & The Outnet

I always find myself going back to the colour combination of white, cream, denim blue and soft brown - especially when I can't think what to wear. Its just casual enough but chic at the same time, and soft but not do girly. And you can wear a bunch of different shades but never clash. 100% failsafe. Actually I've pretty much got stuff like this to put on after the gym this mornin (Karen Walker acid wash skinnys, cream cashmere tshirt, tan leather jacket). Must have had this in the back of my mind last night when packing!
Clockwise from top: Stella McCartney Canvas waist belt, Elle Macpherson Intimates Boudoir Silk and Lace boudoir briefs, Celine 'Watch Me Mirror' shoulder bag, Camilla and Marc Jessica high waist skirt, J Brand Bleached ripped jeans, Chloe Perspex panel platform sandals, Stella McCartney Mesh Basket sandals, Halston Suede shoulder bag, Celestina Singkwent y Siete necklace, Current/Elliott The Skinny Tie-Dye jeans. Center: Superfine Skinny leg blue jeans.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

The Met's Costume Institute Gala 09: Jessica Stam, Kate Bosworth, Diane Kruger & Kate Moss

I can't get over how mind blowing Jessica Stam looks in that Rodarte.. It is absolutely amazing with her colouring - fair skin and warm blonde hair. This is how its done. The Boz does Old Hollywood without an ounce of cliche. Loving the side parted hair and the black lace Stella McCartney - so elegant and just a little bit of siren and romantic gothic. 
Diane Kruger manages to look super strong even though wearing stunning, delicate white Chanel lace. And the divine Miss Moss is literally the golden girl of the night in (and with) Marc Jacobs - love the turban (had been hearing rumours about it for the past week).

The Met's Costume Institute Gala 09: The Olsens

The Olsen girls looked stunning at The Mets Costume Institute Gala themed "Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion"" this year. I love how the total go against the typical "sexy" look (just compare them to what Giselle wore). Mary Kate was in Christian Lacroix Couture and Ashley wore The Row. Her new haircut is growing on me - its sharp and modern (but a little bit 90s, in a good way). Mary Kate's is looking awesome too - soft and natural, but not messy or overly disheveled like it was for a while there.

Monday, May 4, 2009

Rebel Territory

This editorial from UK Vogue in 07 was where I first started getting obsessed with battered old mens army jackets - finally got my hands on a near perfect one (alas it is pocketless) this year. Also love the Prada fringing in this too. Haven't seen anything as good since that collection.

UK Vogue November 2007 "Rebel Territory" Meghan Collison by Venetia Scott 

Source: The Fashion Spot

Flashes Of Brilliance

I'm  total magpie at the moment.. Anything metallic or sequined. Really wanting a sequined jacket - Brigette and I were drooling over a gorgeous black one at Macaroni Penguin on friday night. I love how metallics executed in warmer tones creates a softer edge, and takes away the cold quality they often have.

UK Harpers Bazaar "Flashes Of Brilliance"

Source: The Fashion Spot

Isaac Likes RAFW

Isaac Hindin Miller from Isaac Likes has super kindly answered a few questions for me about his recent trip to Sydney for Rosemount Australian Fashion Week.

What were the highlights and lowlights of RAFW?

Highlights: seeing a collection as progressive as Gareth Pugh, but as clean as Prada from Dion Lee; going to a real life 40s style salon presentation at Jayson Brundson; the new social media running circles around the old schoolers in terms of speed, accessibility and all round coverage of RAFW; and of course meeting my new best good friend Steve Wood - photographer extraordinaire. Lowlights: Having a breakdown due to everything going wrong on the second day - internet went down, security were being big bums and no food all day all got a bit much.

Source: Vogue Australia

Trend wise - what were the biggest and what were your personal favorites?

The Balmain shoulder - seen on almost all of the catwalks, all week I was shaking my head at the blatant copying going on, then I suddenly thought to myself - hey, somebody's gotta do it first - then other people start doing it, then it becomes a trend - and that's where we're at now. Harem pants for Africa, but my favourite pants were the cropped cigarette pants, the best of which were pleated. I love girls in pants.

What looks/trends do you think will translate best over here in little old NZ?

That's a hard one because the Sydney style is such a different one to what we wear here. Almost all the designers cater largely to PYTs - think bleach blonde, big boobs, see through skirts - cocktail frocks and the like, which is something very few NZ designers do. Sydney designers seem to be far more trend driven that NZ designers too - I think we're not quite so influenced by international trends down here, which has its positives and its negatives. Positives are that we're sometimes more original, negatives are that many of our designers put the same thing down the runway year in and out. It will be very interesting to see how many of the NZers get into the Balmain shoulder come NZFW. 

Who was the best dressed person you saw?

My friend Nadia. I love how she dresses like a schoolboy/sailor boy, and everything she buys is like $3 from a thrift store. I never find anything at thrift stores! The standard of dress over in Sydney was really quite incredible - the magazine girls were wearing the most amazing clothes at 9am every morning, and lots of them got changed over the course of the day. Once again, I loved the girls in pants. So hot.

Speaking of which, is Scott Schuman sartorially exceptional in real life?

Scott Schuman is exceptionally small of stature in real life, I'd say he must only be about 5'4 or 5'5 at the most. He generally wears pretty standard American style stuff . That was the first photo taken of him at RAFW that I know about - I got him at about 8:45 am on the first day. 

Source: Isaac Likes

What were the most noticeable signs of the recession?

There weren't many that I could see, nobody talked about it too much, everyone was still wearing crazy expensive clothes and the catwalk shows were still pretty big events, so I don't think there were many at all. Maybe less international media than usual? Certainly less NZ media presence than normal. 

What effect/influence do you you thing blogging and twitter has had on RAFW?

So much effect and so so much influence! After the first day of what we were doing - live video interviews, twit pics while catwalk shows were taking place, videos of the shows and backstage photos up within 15 minutes of them finishing - a lot of the traditional media started getting pretty snarky towards us, and most of our traffic levels doubled and even tripled. I think this was the first ever fashion week to be Twittered and Blogged on such a massively quick scale like what we did, and I think it's changed the nature of the game forever. At the same time, the traditional media still has its place - doing things so quickly means not being able to review collections with the same depth a newspaper or online magazine does. So I think we have our place, and they have theirs. But they didn't know what had hit them.

What's in your Fashion Week Survival tool kit?

Gum, Burt's Bees, laptop, camera, video camera, media pass. Water if I can get my hands on it.


Image Sources: Antipodes, Source, Source

Most “Ocker” fashion piece?

I don't know about ocker, but there was a hell of a lot of extreme Sydney pieces - entirely see through dresses worn with nothing underneath. Almost every designer did at least one of those. Oh, and bikinis. Those Australians don't know how to do a catwalk show without one.

Thanks Isaac! And thanks for the great (and tres speedy) coverage of RAFW.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

4/5/09: Jak & Jil

To be honest, I really doing get the hype over Manolo's and Choo's - If I could spend that much on shoes, I'd rather get something insane. Im pretty much obsessed with anything Nicholas Kirkwood does - so LOVE the pair in the bottom right shot. Also loving the idea of spurs over heeled ankle boots - wonder if they came with that pair? Or were a DIY add on. A cream shearling is def on my  To list. 
Source: Jak & Jil

4/5/09: Alexa Chung

The Brit style icon has shipped herself stateside to the big apple - will be v interesting to see how her MTV show goes.. And if she can "save MTV" as some have suggested.

Love love love the Louis Vuitton look shes owning in the left pic - she fully makes it her own. Often when celebs are showing wearing a whole runway outfit the clothes wear them, but not here. Same goes for when Chloe Sevigny wore LV a while ago.
Source: Knight Cat

3/05/09: The Cobrasnake

Im still coveting that cropped leopard print Adidas tee - have been searching for the perfect vintage-logo one for ages. Also on the Search List is a soft, faded denim shirt - proving nearly impossible (its my Golden Fleece

Sparkles

This is beautiful. Found these on Le Fashion, will def be checking out more of this Photographer's work... Another distraction from uni work, oh dear.
Source: Le Fashion

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Macaroni Penguin

The brand new pop up store Macaroni Penguin opened yesterday!Such a great concept, Ive been really interested in the success pop up stores have been having overseas in the likes of New York and London. Such a great way to combat the recession; win win for all parties creating it, and loved by the consumer as the short time period they are open means they stores are hot property the whole time.

Brigette and I went along to the opening last night. Were really impressed! Great stock (both current and previous seasons) from Karen Walker Eyewear, Kathryn Wilson, Sera Lily, Alexandra Owen, Twenty Seven Names and more. The masterminds behind it are Anna Fitzpatrick of Front Row Diary (and the late, great The Seen) Angela Crane (Pull Your Socks Up). 

I came home with a super comfy and great galaxy print tee dress from Twenty Seven Names (have been coveting galaxy prints for what feels like FOREVER). Brigette nearly died when she saw what is pretty much the last pair of Kathryn Wilsons' Toya boot in the country.. Unfortunately she left it too late and when she went back today they had gone.. Tres tragic, poor girl. Lots of the amazing Kathryn Wilson shoes were super discounted - am v tempted to go back and get myself a pair of the Tanesya flat chocolate lace ups.

Left to Right: Toya & Tanesya

I highly recommend getting yourself there asap. 9 Teed St in Newmarket.

RAFW: Karla Spetic, Beat Poet & Kirrily Johnston

Sorry I've been a bit behind posting, It's been a hectic last half of a week - ton of uni, and had to work. And had 5:20am wakeups (and four hours sleep so I could finish my design assignment). Its been hard to keep up with all the fantastic coverage coming out of Australia (thank god for the likes of Isaac, Patty Huntington and Melissa Hoyer) - don't even get me started on the tsunami of it on twitter!

KARLA SPETIC
I'm a total sucker for outfits in washed out pastels - so I love these tan and bright-baby-blue looks from Karla Spetic. Have also been pretty much obsessed with scalloped edges ever since the Spring 09 collections of Christopher Kane and Chloe.
Love the washed out semi-kitsch floral pieces too - those leggings are to die for.

BEAT POET
I love (and wear) menswear nearly as much as I do womens. Half the time I look like a boy anyway - much to my fathers chagrin. I just find that their tees and shirts fit me so much better than womens ones.

Understandably I pretty much died when I saw the Beat Poet collection - this is how all males should dress. A bit dark, a bit tailored.. And just enough badass grungyness. The skinny jeans look great paired with the tailored jackets coats and vests. How often do you see men in a white skinny jean and it actually looks good?
Love the vest over the sheer sleeves in the fourth look along. And that coat in the second is pretty much perfection.

KIRRILY JOHNSTON
Gorgeous palette at the Kirrily Johnston show - creams, whites and washed out oranges. V warm but soft. Love the contrast with the black pieces and the slicked back (and wrapped around necks) hair. Badass boots too!

Friday, May 1, 2009

Chloe, Coke + Au Revoir Mixte

Perfect messy topknot + those Chloe shorts = perfect. Love the delicate illustrations too. A shame that Mixte is folding.
Tanya Dziahileva from Mixte