On The Fringe

I will always love this fringed baby from Prada from Spring 07. Also loving the lighting and washed out colours of this shot - looks like a dreamy summer polaroid.

Edita Vilkeviciute by Wendy Bevan 

Source: Fashion Gone Rogue

RUSSH July 09

Hi all - maaaajor apologies for the extreme belatedness of this post! Have had a crazy buy past few weeks with pre and actual birthday and uni stuff. But have finally got my shit together! And apologies in advance for possible dwindling in posting this weekend - am working friday night and literally aaall saturday and sunday. Oh the joys of retail.

Great issue of Russh, as always. Oh and did I mention some of my friends gave me a Russh subscription for my 21st? Awesome!!! 

"What's In Your Bag? Fashion Week Essentials"

I loved this - there's something about the insides of peoples bags that is so intimate and unique. You really see what sort of person they are (mess, neat etc) and what is important enough to them to be carted around every day. And I still ADORE that Prada bag!

Left to right: Natalie Shukur (Editor), Stevie Dance (Fashion Director), Christine Thornton (Art Director)

"Richard Prince"

Prince has been a longtime favorite artist of mine - would kill to get my hands on some prints of his. The "Girlfriend" series has always been a fave - and I loved the "Nurses" series and the collaboration with Louis Vuitton.

From the "Girlfriends" series & from the "Nurses" series

 

"The Heart Is A Lonely Hunter"

I love the austerity modesty of this - so evocative of puritans and a time long past. Yet it never ever verges on looking "costumey" as some others in this vein have.

This pop of colour in the middle of the spread nocks yo for six - and really emphasizes the starkness of the black and white. And I'm so digging that hat - makes me want to buy another version of the wide brimmed fedora I picked up but in black.
Isn't it awesome? And the layered fringing on that bodysuit? To die for. I would probably by twirling non stop if I had this.
The movement of the shot on the left is particularly beautiful - conveys a sense of freedom and wide open spaces. Beautiful billowing shapes from the cape and skirt.

Photographer: Benny Horne

Fashion Editor: Stevie Dance

Model: Katie Fogarty

 

"Sorry, No One's Home"

This is my favorite of the whole issue - the sense of nostalgia and innocence are impeccable. As is the small town ennui. The dreamlike state is evocative of The Virgin Suicides and In My Fathers Den.

I definitely need to big up more pieces in blush and pink tones - and as my hair is shorter now I feel I can wear them and look less overtly girly. Also wanting some of the Lonely Hearts lingerie (featured on the right) than I was already!

This last shot in particular is stunning - vulnerable, yearning, lonely, innocent yet womanly.

Photographer: Derek Henderson

Fashion Editor: Natalie Shukur

Model: Svetlana Lazareva @ Viviens

ADN de la Mode

The stunning August issue of French Vogue (shot entirely by Inez and Vinoodh) has a deliciously long editorially showcasing the key fall looks from all the major designers - and they've used all the top girls and there still is a real sense of continuity.

Isabel Marant, Ferragamo & Dsquared

Miu Miu & Paul Smith

Louis Vuitton, Versace & Balmain

Prada, Fendi & Gucci

Loewe & Rick Owens

Chanel & Yves Saint Laurent

Vogue Paris August 09 "ADN de la Mode" 

By Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin 

Source: Fashion Gone Rogue

Glitter

Uni/life pressures (only a week and a half left - SO much work due) and seriousness have left me craving lighthearted (but not priced) sparkly frivolities like these. All of which are ironically glitzy, fun and just plain pretty. 

Clockwise: Lanvin Happu Partage fold-over handbag, Louis Vuitton Chain necklace, Prada Cracle leather embroidered heel, Louis Vuitton Paillettes bag

Clockwise: Louis Vuitton Bisetta bag and Chain necklace, John Galliano Patent leather cutout bootie.

Bi-tone would look fab with denim and white cotton.

Clockwise: Janis by Janis Savitt Gold and steel multi chain necklace, Loewe Metallic leather platform sandal, Stella McCartney Spray pring nylon hobo, Givenchy Brass chain bracelet, John Galliano Wood and leather cut out bootie

Source: Style.com

Orthopedic

God know why, but for some reason lately I've been seriously attracted to any black shoes that are big, clumpy and more than vaguely orthopedic. Possibly could be a subconscious by-product of my actually crappy feet; scrawny-skinny, flat and basically collapsing in on themselves. Pretty. I also love footwear that says "Fuck off" (hence why I live in my Docs).

Clockwise: Diane Von Furstenberg Zia shoe, DvF Suede Java boot, Sonia Rykiel Ponyskin boot, Prada Leather boot with rubber sole.

Source: Style.Com

Indian Summer

This is one of the best Daria editorials I've seen in a while (not that she ever does anything remotely average). Love the fresh, summery feel.  Lots of Chloe and those sumptuously crushed Prada silks. Im still obsessed with those glasses. I'm thinking an intense search for the perfect pair is in order.

Vogue UK June 2009 "Indian Summer" Daria Werbowy by Patrick Demarchelier

Source: Fashion Gone Rogue

Rebel Territory

This editorial from UK Vogue in 07 was where I first started getting obsessed with battered old mens army jackets - finally got my hands on a near perfect one (alas it is pocketless) this year. Also love the Prada fringing in this too. Haven't seen anything as good since that collection.

UK Vogue November 2007 "Rebel Territory" Meghan Collison by Venetia Scott 

Source: The Fashion Spot

Isaac Likes RAFW

Isaac Hindin Miller from Isaac Likes has super kindly answered a few questions for me about his recent trip to Sydney for Rosemount Australian Fashion Week.

What were the highlights and lowlights of RAFW?

Highlights: seeing a collection as progressive as Gareth Pugh, but as clean as Prada from Dion Lee; going to a real life 40s style salon presentation at Jayson Brundson; the new social media running circles around the old schoolers in terms of speed, accessibility and all round coverage of RAFW; and of course meeting my new best good friend Steve Wood - photographer extraordinaire. Lowlights: Having a breakdown due to everything going wrong on the second day - internet went down, security were being big bums and no food all day all got a bit much.

Source: Vogue Australia

Trend wise - what were the biggest and what were your personal favorites?

The Balmain shoulder - seen on almost all of the catwalks, all week I was shaking my head at the blatant copying going on, then I suddenly thought to myself - hey, somebody's gotta do it first - then other people start doing it, then it becomes a trend - and that's where we're at now. Harem pants for Africa, but my favourite pants were the cropped cigarette pants, the best of which were pleated. I love girls in pants.

What looks/trends do you think will translate best over here in little old NZ?

That's a hard one because the Sydney style is such a different one to what we wear here. Almost all the designers cater largely to PYTs - think bleach blonde, big boobs, see through skirts - cocktail frocks and the like, which is something very few NZ designers do. Sydney designers seem to be far more trend driven that NZ designers too - I think we're not quite so influenced by international trends down here, which has its positives and its negatives. Positives are that we're sometimes more original, negatives are that many of our designers put the same thing down the runway year in and out. It will be very interesting to see how many of the NZers get into the Balmain shoulder come NZFW. 

Who was the best dressed person you saw?

My friend Nadia. I love how she dresses like a schoolboy/sailor boy, and everything she buys is like $3 from a thrift store. I never find anything at thrift stores! The standard of dress over in Sydney was really quite incredible - the magazine girls were wearing the most amazing clothes at 9am every morning, and lots of them got changed over the course of the day. Once again, I loved the girls in pants. So hot.

Source: The Sartorialist

Speaking of which, is Scott Schuman sartorially exceptional in real life?

Scott Schuman is exceptionally small of stature in real life, I'd say he must only be about 5'4 or 5'5 at the most. He generally wears pretty standard American style stuff . That was the first photo taken of him at RAFW that I know about - I got him at about 8:45 am on the first day. 

Source: Isaac Likes

What were the most noticeable signs of the recession?

There weren't many that I could see, nobody talked about it too much, everyone was still wearing crazy expensive clothes and the catwalk shows were still pretty big events, so I don't think there were many at all. Maybe less international media than usual? Certainly less NZ media presence than normal. 

What effect/influence do you you thing blogging and twitter has had on RAFW?

So much effect and so so much influence! After the first day of what we were doing - live video interviews, twit pics while catwalk shows were taking place, videos of the shows and backstage photos up within 15 minutes of them finishing - a lot of the traditional media started getting pretty snarky towards us, and most of our traffic levels doubled and even tripled. I think this was the first ever fashion week to be Twittered and Blogged on such a massively quick scale like what we did, and I think it's changed the nature of the game forever. At the same time, the traditional media still has its place - doing things so quickly means not being able to review collections with the same depth a newspaper or online magazine does. So I think we have our place, and they have theirs. But they didn't know what had hit them.

What's in your Fashion Week Survival tool kit?

Gum, Burt's Bees, laptop, camera, video camera, media pass. Water if I can get my hands on it.

Image Sources: Antipodes, Source, Source

Most “Ocker” fashion piece?

I don't know about ocker, but there was a hell of a lot of extreme Sydney pieces - entirely see through dresses worn with nothing underneath. Almost every designer did at least one of those. Oh, and bikinis. Those Australians don't know how to do a catwalk show without one.

Thanks Isaac! And thanks for the great (and tres speedy) coverage of RAFW.

Bunnies and Chocolate

Happy Easter everyone!! Enjoy your chocolate and family and relaaax. x

Clockwise: Abbey Lee, Chloe Bay Patent Bag, Stella McCartney Spring 08, Luella Spring 09, Prada Pink nylon bow clutch, Karen Walker Spring 09, Luella Spring 09, Stella McCartney Spring 09,

Sources: Style.com, Net-a-Porter, Google Images, Fashion Spot

MFW: Prada Accessories = Perfect

I wasn't that sold on the Prada Fall 09 collection, then again it's probably one of the ones that I'll go back and look at a million times as it starts to grow on me - then end up obsessed with it (happened countless times before). What I did absolutely die for however were their insane (as always) accessories.

The boots were out of this world; solid and intense with sueded details and slouchy, folded woolen tops (evoking socks no doubt) and then held up with leather straps and buckles. Perfect, refined use of the bondage details that have been such a strong look these past few seasons - and actually pretty usefull, no more awkwardly trying to pull your boots up!

Bags, as usual, were perfection. Love the classic ladylike bags in the bugundy - the soft leather stops them looking to hard and prim. But the glistening fur bag in the centre is by far my favorite.
The heels were in a world of their own - they look like the love child of a gladiator and a dinosaur. Literally so fierce. Im really liking this dino shoe trend (also seen at Christopher Kane's Spring 09 show).

Source: Style.Com

Bookworm: Sasha and Prada AND Karl

Exciting news on the art and book front...

... Sasha Pivovarova is already collaborating on a book for Prada - and now is doing one with Karl Lagerfeld too!

"Karl asked me to collaborate on a book based on Russian fairy tales!  I finally picked The Snow Maiden or Snegurochka.  It's a story of a gorgeous snow princess and her adventures towards a satisying, romantic, climax.  Karl didn't give a deadline, but I planned to do 12 illustrations and I've already done five!" 

James Jean

I have spent a good chunk of my morning looking at the work of James Jean. He's the amazing talent behind Prada's Spring 08 campaign artwork.

 

 

I particularly love the Fairy Bag...

And the Trembled Blossoms animation from YouTube (a must see if you havn't already)...

  

His other work is equally amazing - especially the darker works. Love the contrast between the delicacy of the work with the imagery and themes.

 

 

"Using pictorial conventions from such varied sources as Japanese Woodblock prints, Northern Renaissance paintings and etchings, Chinese scroll paintings, Shanghai advertising posters, comics, anatomical charts, and vintage printed ephemera, Jean's images evoke a sense of fantasy and the subconscious, seductive in its delicacy and sensuality. " - Mars Destijl

Prada Spring 09

The more I see this shot from Prada's Spring 09 Campaign, the more I like it!

Source: Fashion Copious 

It reminds me a lot of the classic Muses...

Wanting: Prada Lace Bodysuit

Vogue Italia October 2008 "Focus On Laces"

Prada? You Look Familiar!

The shots from Prada's Resort 09 campaign featuring Ymre Stiekema soo remind me of the paintings of Peter Stichbury (one of my favorite painters). A very talented Kiwi and a world class talent. Seeing his work in person is an amazing experience - will do a post on him soon.