Showing posts with label Dion Lee. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dion Lee. Show all posts

Monday, May 4, 2009

Isaac Likes RAFW

Isaac Hindin Miller from Isaac Likes has super kindly answered a few questions for me about his recent trip to Sydney for Rosemount Australian Fashion Week.

What were the highlights and lowlights of RAFW?

Highlights: seeing a collection as progressive as Gareth Pugh, but as clean as Prada from Dion Lee; going to a real life 40s style salon presentation at Jayson Brundson; the new social media running circles around the old schoolers in terms of speed, accessibility and all round coverage of RAFW; and of course meeting my new best good friend Steve Wood - photographer extraordinaire. Lowlights: Having a breakdown due to everything going wrong on the second day - internet went down, security were being big bums and no food all day all got a bit much.

Source: Vogue Australia

Trend wise - what were the biggest and what were your personal favorites?

The Balmain shoulder - seen on almost all of the catwalks, all week I was shaking my head at the blatant copying going on, then I suddenly thought to myself - hey, somebody's gotta do it first - then other people start doing it, then it becomes a trend - and that's where we're at now. Harem pants for Africa, but my favourite pants were the cropped cigarette pants, the best of which were pleated. I love girls in pants.

What looks/trends do you think will translate best over here in little old NZ?

That's a hard one because the Sydney style is such a different one to what we wear here. Almost all the designers cater largely to PYTs - think bleach blonde, big boobs, see through skirts - cocktail frocks and the like, which is something very few NZ designers do. Sydney designers seem to be far more trend driven that NZ designers too - I think we're not quite so influenced by international trends down here, which has its positives and its negatives. Positives are that we're sometimes more original, negatives are that many of our designers put the same thing down the runway year in and out. It will be very interesting to see how many of the NZers get into the Balmain shoulder come NZFW. 

Who was the best dressed person you saw?

My friend Nadia. I love how she dresses like a schoolboy/sailor boy, and everything she buys is like $3 from a thrift store. I never find anything at thrift stores! The standard of dress over in Sydney was really quite incredible - the magazine girls were wearing the most amazing clothes at 9am every morning, and lots of them got changed over the course of the day. Once again, I loved the girls in pants. So hot.

Speaking of which, is Scott Schuman sartorially exceptional in real life?

Scott Schuman is exceptionally small of stature in real life, I'd say he must only be about 5'4 or 5'5 at the most. He generally wears pretty standard American style stuff . That was the first photo taken of him at RAFW that I know about - I got him at about 8:45 am on the first day. 

Source: Isaac Likes

What were the most noticeable signs of the recession?

There weren't many that I could see, nobody talked about it too much, everyone was still wearing crazy expensive clothes and the catwalk shows were still pretty big events, so I don't think there were many at all. Maybe less international media than usual? Certainly less NZ media presence than normal. 

What effect/influence do you you thing blogging and twitter has had on RAFW?

So much effect and so so much influence! After the first day of what we were doing - live video interviews, twit pics while catwalk shows were taking place, videos of the shows and backstage photos up within 15 minutes of them finishing - a lot of the traditional media started getting pretty snarky towards us, and most of our traffic levels doubled and even tripled. I think this was the first ever fashion week to be Twittered and Blogged on such a massively quick scale like what we did, and I think it's changed the nature of the game forever. At the same time, the traditional media still has its place - doing things so quickly means not being able to review collections with the same depth a newspaper or online magazine does. So I think we have our place, and they have theirs. But they didn't know what had hit them.

What's in your Fashion Week Survival tool kit?

Gum, Burt's Bees, laptop, camera, video camera, media pass. Water if I can get my hands on it.


Image Sources: Antipodes, Source, Source

Most “Ocker” fashion piece?

I don't know about ocker, but there was a hell of a lot of extreme Sydney pieces - entirely see through dresses worn with nothing underneath. Almost every designer did at least one of those. Oh, and bikinis. Those Australians don't know how to do a catwalk show without one.

Thanks Isaac! And thanks for the great (and tres speedy) coverage of RAFW.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

RAFW: Arnsdorf & Dion Lee

ARNSDORF
Ive been loving cropped tops lately - still yet to find the perfect cropped tee unfortunately - so I understandably adore these looks from Arnsdof. Love that they executed something thats quite loaded with connotations (youth, 80s/90s, sometimes trashy) in elegant fabrics and paired them with great bottoms like the silky wide leg pants (rarely see a pant in that style thats so gorgeously fluid and delicate) and the tan pants (female chinos much?) and safari-esque shorts.

DION LEE
After falling in love with his designs online and in Australian Vogue, I was super amped to see Dion Lee's new collection. And he certainly did not disappoint, getting rave reviews. The general consensus seems to be he is a bright new hope for the future of Australian fashion.
The collection was slick, sexy and futuristic - thoroughly modern as opposed to the retrofuturism weve been seeing a bit of lately. Tailored, sculptural but still very fluid. Lee pushed his use of cut outs, panels and folds even further. I die for those insane jackets - elbow cut outs anyone? Seriously doesn't have nice elbows.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Great Southern Land

There are a few new Australian designers that have been totally blowing my mind. Doing amazing new things and really breaking the mold.

DION LEE
Only has two collections under his belt, only out of Fashion School for a short time. He was recently featured in Australian Vogue. Is definitely one to watch! His collections feature alot of insane laser cutting and futuristic tailoring.

SUMMER 08/09
The laser cut leggings are to die for - remind me of the amazing Rodarte ones. Also love the tailored slashes that he uses on the orange pants.

WINTER 09
I adore the colour palette for this collection (I'm a total sucker for a good pale blue). The lookbook is especially lovely - very desaturated, really emphasizes the colours of the collecton. The laser cut folds look stunning - amazing pattern, texture and shadows. 
His tailoring is out of this world. Cutouts in knees and elbows, amazingly paneled jackets, sheer pants!!
Source: Dion Lee

TV
These guys have been around for about three seasons, and am already so loving what they do - its exciting, different, and doesn't play on any necessary "trends". Also gives me another reason to covet leopard print right now.

WINTER 09
I also die for their pants - insanely perfect slashed jeans and skinnyskinny pants.
SUMMER 08/09
And I'm always won over by a good bodysuit (obsession much? But they are so handy!) and these are some of the best I've seen - looove the cut outs and LOVE the dreamcatcher details. Have already had a look for some on Trademe (to DIY into a necklace hopefully!)
The bikeshorts (another staple I couldn't live without) with cut outs are fab too.
Source: Tv