This is interesting; she has no previous editorial experience, but is big in both fashion (is the designer behind Kova & T - creators of the infamous and celebrity-loved latex leggings) and art (founded Garage Center For Contemporary Culture - the largest exhibition venue in Moscow). We will have a bit of a wait to see the result (first issue drops first of September) and rumour has it that Zhukova's best friend and artist Olympia Scarry (grandaughter of the great Richard Scarry) will be creative director. Of the new Pop, Zhukova says:
"We are working hard on a complete revamp of the magazine in order to provide a broader point of view focusing also on art, contemporary culture and the globalisation of all things pop-related."
I die. Frockwriter has this preview of the cover of Karen magazine's winter issue. Classic beauty with the pop of colour - works so well. Olivia O'Driscoll is stunning. I think editor Marian Simms sums up the mood of the magazine (and a lot of people in general);
"Everyone is feeling that times are bleak and I wanted to have a bit of celebration”
Apparently the issue also features Jessica Hart - another fave face of mine. Can't wait for this issue! Every issue makes me so proud that this comes out of Australasia.
Vintage Daria from Yves Saint Laurent's Winter 05 campaign - I always love the YSL ads (esp. the new ones with Claudia), his girls always look so statuesque. The Eiffel Tower looks dreamy. I need to get myself to Paris asap I think.
I'm really loving all the bandage body con dresses that have been all over the runways this fall - they remind me of mummies, in a totally good way, wrapped and textured. There was a great one in the Meadham Kirchoffcollection, and some really interesting torn, ragged shirts..
This is how little black dresses should be. I'm coveting all the amazing knitwear (def in black) from London Fashion Week. The dresses shown at Mark Fast were all short, tight and laddered in the best possible way.
Our antipodean wonder boy that is Josh Goot showed a standout collection; retro-futuristic and inspired by geology and geography - which worked amazingly, although I'm biased as I'm a bit of a geo nerd (bad habit of spotting and naming cloud formations, karst landscapes etc, oh dear. Obviously I loved his cloud/sky prints from a few seasons ago). Anyhow, it kicked off with subtle colour blocking in neutral tones, then moved on to some amazing pieces that used map contour lines - the emphasized and flattered the body lines no end.
There were some standout layered and gathered body con dresses - amazing texture. Particularly love the beigey pink.. The highlight however was definitely the final looks - mind blowing prints combining the beauty of sedimentary layers with the colours and patterns of rock and minerals. Amazing.
Perfect black collection from Macdonald. The dresses are insane, starting off with the conservative(ish) strapless on Magda, then moving to some mind blowing knits (particularly love the texture and tactility of the third). The separates outfits were even better however. Sheer, knitted, asymmetric tops; insane jackets (spiked shoulders anyone? I'm keen); cropped leather pants and unzipped skirts. Rounded off with some amazing booties. And the furs just blew me away. Words cannot describe the first look on Karlie. The movement in the long grey fur, layered over a patterned mesh dress. It frames her face like a mane. If your going to do a one-tone outfit, do this.
I've always been a sucker for a good star print - especially galaxy and solar system print (a lot harder to find than your standard and now somewhat iconic star print from Chanel's Spring 08 collection. Peter Pilotto did an amazing galaxy print for his Winter 08 collection, and has developed it further for the collection he just showed in London for 09. Also love the use of twisting and draping - takes it to another level.
I found most of the Ossie Clarkcollection underwhelming, maybe thats why these dresses really stood out. The strength is the simplicity and fluidity - the movement of the pieces (even captured in a still shot) looks amazing.
Although it was a winter collection, its the short pieces that really shined for me in Marios Schwabshow. The neckline and shapes of the first dress are great, and the folded, crisp white origami-like quality of the second dress is my favorite (and reminds me of one of my all time favoriteStella McCartney dresses). I don't think I need to explain that tantalizingly soft blue fur.
One of the highlights of London Fashion Week for me is always Luella Bartley - her show is one of the main ones I count down to. Luella's Fall 09 collection continued her iconic BritGirl look, but is somewhat more mature and tougher. Cute dresses (building on the shapes and layers of her Spring 09 collection) and youthfull details featured, as did lots of utilitarian/military details (reminiscent of her Fall 07 collection) - this new/old Luella worked well, strengthening her look and reminding us why we love what she does.
Love the gold tights and back with black and zip details. Great hats too - confederate caps, and slouchy beanies (cute, boyish, useful). The oversized military jumper dress would be insanely handy - especially those massive pockets (you almost don't need the satchel - but def want it anyway.) I also covet the tweed coat, washed out sixties hair and makeup, and the bags.
The slick black collection from Louise Goldin blew my mind. This is how all black should be done - so rich and dark, but with the subtle sheen from the leather. The dresses are the standout for me - so many amazing details; leather panels, cut outs, amazing necklines.
And she also gives us some fun with fur, sequins ans sparkle - which works so well with the foil of the black. The coats are also really strong - quite bold silhouettes. And naturally I covet the leather pants.
Excite! The new issue of my beloved Russh is in the pipeline (of course it wont arrive in little old NZ for a while - merde!). Inside is Jethro Cave, Jane Birkin, Tallulah Morton, Steven Sprouse, The Selby, Jeremy Scott - and a million other wonderful things. Can't wait! Will be pestering my news agent constantly from now on - I am sure they detest me!
She has been laying low for a while, but now our girl Mary Kate has shown up everywhere looking insanely stunning.
This black dress at the Independent Spirit awards is so chic.
And this white blazer (Stella McCartney? Probz!) has been one of her key pieces this past week. Love the monochromatic outfit below - and how refreshing a white jacket is for winter. And the sunglasses (they remind me of the Karen Walker ones I have been going on about.)
She also wore it really well with blue and the same scarf - and Nicole!
Ps: How amazing is the cut of her shoes? MKs accessorizing lately has just blown me away. Love the tons of bi-tone jewelry.
As always, Alexa Chung looks amazing. The cream-navy combo is contrasting yet soft, and a nice change to the usual black-white. She always has the best bags and shoes. And makes me seriously consider bobbing my hair?
For the second season in a row I was really impressed with Richard Nicoll. The Fall 09 collection is refined and stark, yet still warm and soft - achieved I think by the use of creamy fabrics (as opposed to harsh whites) and the genius use of layering and textures. I love the strong linear elements and lingerie detailing - they really play up the contrast of structure versus softness.
And as I am a total magpie, I love the strong use of textured gold - fun and shiny and luxe, whilst still emphasizing the structure of the pieces.
More on this linear look that I'm loving right now, Christopher Kane (as always) produced a great collection. Strong black lines on sheer fabric created the most amazing patterns and shapes - and constrast the vividness of the line with the sheer fabric. I also love the oversized sweaters he showed.
Net-A-Porter has some new pieces from Stella McCartney's Spring 09 collection. J'adore!!! The dress on the left is mind blowing, and I think the second two pieces are so wearable. Im a sucker for oversized cashmere, and a sequined tank like that I would literally wear with EVERYTHING.
The Armand Basi Onecollection showed an amazingly strong, androgynous look. Love the shapes of the boxy jackets, loose pants and tight jackets - especially the simplicity of the oversized black jumper.
Charles Anastase referred to his collection as "autobiographical" rather than retro, and I do think it steers clear of having the strained retro look. Love the fabrics (patent leather, wool, fur, sheer), the shoes (he always uses the most outrageous shoes - they complement the delicate elements of his clothes perfectly) and the makeup - the dark lip pops up again. I also like the combination of the sheer fabric and the shearling at Sinha-Stanic.